Milescraft 1400 - Universal Sawguide

This works perfectly and is very versatile. I like the adjustability.

When I received this, I was a little underwhelmed; it looked, in the package, about as flimsy as the edge guide that came prepackaged with my saw. But in use, more impressed. It comes with a selection of four guide bars (that attach the edge guide to the saw. One fit my Dewalt circular saw, another my Bosch jigsaw, so A-1 for utility. There's a fine adjustment mechanism that looks a little plasticky (because it is), but worked fine, just not sure about longevity. Aligning it to cutline is an eyeball project, i.e. there's no scale that helps you preset to x inches (with any accuracy,) but is fairly simple and fast-to-do, unless you are looking for aerospace industry accuracy.I used this to help rip an upcycled 6x6 8-foot long post. Basically kerfed the cut both sides with my circular saw and then cut the remaining 1-1.5 inch in the middle of the beam with my jigsaw.(I had tried to use a handsaw but that kept being pinched and wandering in the kerf and was no fun at all). Used the guide on both jig and circ. saws. Worked pretty well when I got basic alignment and registration figured out. The part of the guide that tracks the beam edge is a little shallow and can thus jump the edge of the board, especially if the boards' corner has been rounded over. So, pay attention.Next time, I will build a small hardwood addition to the fence to improve this performance. But overall safer than trying to do the task on my table saw short-handed, and something that could be done in the field (ie not bandsaw territory). Requires a bit of plane work for cleanup (for cabinet making), but perhaps good to go for a construction application.

I run a handyman business, and do more in the way of carpentry than any other area. Once you find the bar that fits your saw, you're good. I had lost the fence to my circular saw and found this one on Amazon. It is superior to my factory fence in that it also adjust a couple of inches in 1/16th increments without having to loosen the thumb screw. Used it on a couple of construction sites, so I can't comment on the longevity yet. But, up to this point, I'm pretty impressed.Been using this fence for about a year now. Here's what I've found. The 1/16" increments on the minor adjustment tab are not quite 1/16th. They are still very helpful for small adjustments. Just don't try to add up the notches and expect the math to come out in 1/16th increments. The part of the bar that gets the thumb screw friction on it is holding up very well. The measurements on the rest of the bar are beginning to wear away. But, I never counted on them anyway. I always just flipped the saw upside down and used my tape measure to get the desired size rip. Overall, I am still impressed with this aftermarket fence and would definitely purchase again if needed.

I got this for cutting circles, not realizing that it's not geometrically correct for cutting small circles, because in order to be geometrically correct, the center of the rod would have to pass through the cutting-edge of the saw blade, which is obviously impossible.If you want to cut small circles with a jigsaw, you will need a geometrically correct jig, but it's so easy to slap one together that nobody even bothers to manufacture them. Bosch used to make one for one of its expensive jigsaws, and it can still be found on the internet for over $100, but it apparently didn't sell well enough to continue to produce it.The basic idea for a circle jig is a piece of 1/4" plywood 1.5" wider than the length of the jigsaw's bottom plate, and a foot or so long (which is long enough to allow you to cut circles with a diameter of about 20 inches), and some sticks (such as 3/4" wide pieces of 3/4" plywood) to make a "fence" to hold the jigsaw in place at one end of the plywood. (There are a few websites with photos of variations on this type of jig, so I don't include any photos here.) It also needs a hole (about 1/2") for the blade to go through the plywood, and a line, drawn on the bottom, which passes through the cutting-edge of the saw blade, and is perpendicular to the side of the "fence." Pivot-holes are drilled along this line, at a distance from the cutting-edge of the blade equal to the radius of the desired circle. So, you can see that the jig holds the cutting-edge of the blade a distance from the pivot equal to the desired radius, and perpendicular to the radius running through the cutting-edge, or put another way, tangential to the circle. So, it's geometrically correct.Some people glue the sticks in place, but I chose to screw them in place with #8x1" flat-head screws inserted through the bottom. This required me to clamp each stick in place with a C-clamp, one at a time, drill pilot holes entirely through the stick and plywood from the top, then insert the screws through the bottom, and then remove the clamp and move on to the next stick. Nothing to it. (Get a cordless drill, if you haven't already.) I put front and sides of the "fence" in place, and it fit so tightly that I didn't even need to put the back on it - I just push the jigsaw into place, and it stays put.Once the "fence" is in place, drill a hole for the saw blade. I used a 1/2" wood bit, and drilled part-way through from the top, and the rest of the way from the bottom, to prevent splintering on the bottom. Then, on the bottom, draw a line which passes through the cutting-edge of saw blade, and is perpendicular to the side of the "fence." Pivot-holes are placed on this line, at the desired radius from the blade. The rest should be obvious.

It’s an edge guide for a circular or jig saw with 4 different options for width depending on what fits your tool. I don’t care the adjustment at the head isn’t exactly 1/16 or that the markings on the top don’t last long. You measure from the blade of your saw to the head anyway. It’s not a finish tool anymore than the saw you attach it to is. It’s a rough guide that is way better than that bent piece of steel you usually get with most saws. If you want track saw results at less than 15 bucks your on the wrong road. This gets the job done if you can’t follow a pencil line.